Japan September 24-October 1, 2006

As in our week-long trip to China earlier in September, we found a week in Japan to fly by quickly, especially as we criss-crossed the country in various trains, thanks to our Japan Rail passes! We flew from Kuantan to Kuala Lumpur then overnight to Osaka, then by bus to Kobe, arriving in the morning at the Marriott Hotel on Rokko Island close to Procter & Gamble’s office where Pat was enrolled in a three-day course. They were having a Canada Fair, thus the familiar flags in this picture of the main restaurant!


















From our train window en route to Himeji Castle on our first afternoon, is the impressive Akashi Kaikyo Suspension Bridge at 3910m, the longest and tallest in the world! It is located about 10 km west of Kobe and is indeed an amazing feat of engineering, having withstood the 1995 earthquake while still under construction.






At Himeji Castle we enjoyed a typical Japanese lunch in the gardens while admiring the lush vegetation and the many koi swimming in the pond. Himeji is probably the most splendid castle in Japan still in its original form. It was built in 1580 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi and enlarged about 30 years later. Over the next centuries, it was home to 48 successive lords. It has a five-storey central tower (donjon) and three smaller towers, surrounded by moats and walls. After our long flight, it was good exercise to climb up to the top of the castle and admire the view of Himeji below and the surrounding mountains.




Pat’s course began on Day 2 so I took the train to Kyoto for the day. Regular trains are efficient, clean and full of passengers so I felt quite safe despite the lack of language skills! I started my day at the Kiyomizu-dera Temple and its lovely surrounding park. These Japanese were on a street just below the temple-it was not unusual to find young people in typical dress. This Buddhist temple was first built in 798 but these buildings date from reconstructions in 1633. It is a huge magnet for busloads of Japanese tourists, many of whom buy good luck charms and try to ensure their success in love by closing their eyes and walking about 18m between two large stones…if you miss the stone, your desire for love will remain unfulfilled!










At lunchtime, I wandered around the Gion area, where the geisha can be found in the evening rushing to their appointments! This street is typical of the sorts of wooden buildings dating from the 17th century that line this part of the city. Many are traditional teahouses and restaurants.



After lunch I visited the huge Heian-Jingu shrine built in 1895 to commemorate the 1100th anniversary of the founding of Kyoto. Around the corner from here was the lovely Kyoto Handicraft Centre where I spent some time browsing before picking up a lovely silk scarf for Jen and an unusual tiny cloisonné tray for Steph featuring Japanese maple leaves.




On Day 3 I took another day trip on my own, this time up the Mount Rokko cable car (400m) overlooking the city of Kobe and down the other side in a cable car to the village of Arima, famous for its two onsens (public bath houses). The village was full of local tourists but I was probably the only white person there! The village is very hilly, with narrow streets, small shops, pretty parks and a bubbling stream through the middle. They are famous for a special thin cracker, called Tansan-Senbei, made with carbonated spring water. They tasted not unlike sweet ice cream cones (minus the ice cream!).



At lunchtime, I was recommended to this sushi restaurant and enjoyed some interesting dishes by pointing to the menu and picking plates from the “sushi train”! I took a bus back into downtown Kobe and spent some time wandering around the busy shopping district, and into a beautiful department store, called Daimura. I was particularly fascinated with their huge grocery department in the basement with all sorts of foods available, many featuring tasting samples and many completely unknown to me!



Day 4 was our last day in Kobe and since I had only the morning to explore, I decided to take advantage of the City Loop Bus which enables you to hop on/off at various points around the city. A particularly poignant spot was the remains of earthquake damage from the devastating quake in 1995 which destroyed much of downtown Kobe. This picture shows damage done to the quai and has been left as a memorial, next to the more serene Port of Kobe Earthquake Memorial Park with its lovely fountain and statuary.



A view of modern-day Kobe from the harbour.



In the afternoon, I met up with Pat and we took our first bullet train (shinkansen) west to Hiroshima. As we arrived close to sunset, we hired a taxi to take us past the famous A-Bomb Dome, the site of the first atomic bomb explosion, left in ruins as an eternal reminder of the tragedy. We were very moved by the beautiful memorial in the Peace Memorial Park which features a cenotaph containing the names of the known victims, a Flame of Peace and a peaceful pond. Across the road is the Children’s Peace Memorial, inspired by leukemia victim Sadako, who at the age of 10 years, decided to fold 1,000 cranes. This is an ancient Japanese custom through which one believes that a person’s wishes will come true. Today, many strings of paper cranes are displayed nearby.



Sunset over Hiroshima from the Prince Hotel, outside the city.



Our short stay in Hiroshima was over all too quickly and early on Day 5 we took more bullet trains to Osaka, Tokyo and several local trains to Mt. Fuji, where we had a room booked in an expensive but typical Japanese ryokan (inn). We had a two-room suite with sliding rice paper doors, dividing our dinner/sleeping area (futons on the floor) from our breakfast area. Outside was our own private rock-lined hot bath! Here I am wearing a typical yucata (like a kimono).



Breakfast the next morning, complete with raw eggs! They were meant to be cracked over fresh rice and mixed together...we passed, enjoying cooked omelet with pickles instead!



Mt. Fuji from the bridge crossing the lake at Kawaguchi-ko. No snow yet on the top of the mountain! It was still summer weather with no sign of fall in the air when we were there.



Bullet train inside and arriving at the station. Your reserved seat shows which car you are seated in. You stand in a queue on the platform and the train stops precisely at that car number! Talk about Japanese efficiency! Young ladies wearing white gloves push snack cars down the aisles regularly. In traditional Japanese fashion, they bow upon entering and exiting each car.





An amusing sign discussing rest room etiquette in Kyoto!

Here's hoping we have another chance to explore more of Japan, perhaps this time in the north! Jumpa lagi...